New Town

The New Town is the reason Edinburgh is a UNESCO World Heritage Site twice over. Laid out from 1767 to James Craig's grid, it is a whole district built to one idea: wide streets, palace-fronted terraces, and private gardens dropped between them like green rooms. Two and a half centuries later people still live in it, which is what saves it from feeling like a museum. Stay here and you are within fifteen minutes' walk of the castle, the galleries, Waverley station and the best of the city's restaurants, with none of the noise of the Old Town closes.

New Town, Edinburgh

The streets worth walking

Start on George Street, the spine of the grid, and walk it end to end from St Andrew Square to Charlotte Square. It is the grandest shopping street in Scotland and the only one where the view at each end is a domed church rather than a shopfront. Turn north into Thistle Street or Rose Street for pubs and small kitchens tucked behind the main frontages, then keep going down Frederick Street to Queen Street and the gardens beyond. Heriot Row, where Robert Louis Stevenson grew up, and Great King Street give you the purest run of Georgian terraces in Britain: fanlights, iron railings, and the original sash windows we have restored in our own flats. Moray Place, an oval of towering stone, is worth the short detour west before you drop down towards Stockbridge.

Eating and drinking

Dishoom on St Andrew Square is the reliable full-house dinner — go early or book weeks ahead. For something quieter, The Lookout at Calton Hill does a long lunch with the best window in the city, and Fhior on Broughton Street is the tasting menu locals actually return to. Coffee is easy: Cairngorm on Frederick Street roasts its own, and Söderberg does cardamom buns worth queueing for. For a drink after dinner, the Bon Vivant on Thistle Street and Panda & Sons, a basement bar hidden behind a barbershop front on Queen Street, are two minutes apart.

Art, shops and rainy days

The Scottish National Gallery and the Portrait Gallery on Queen Street are both free, both indoors, and both ten minutes from any New Town flat — the single best answer to an Edinburgh downpour. Stockbridge's antiques and Multrees Walk's designer row cover the two extremes of shopping, and Golden Hare Books in Stockbridge and Topping & Company on Blenheim Place are the bookshops to lose an hour in.

Getting around

Everything central is walkable and mostly downhill from the New Town. The tram runs from St Andrew Square to Edinburgh Airport in about thirty-five minutes, and to Leith and Newhaven in the other direction. Waverley station sits at the foot of the gardens for Glasgow, Stirling and the Highland line. Parking is controlled seven days a week and expensive, so most guests arrive by tram or taxi and leave the car at home — the flats sit inside the zone where you genuinely do not need one.

Letters from Edinburgh

Occasional letters from Edinburgh: new residences, quiet-season rates and what is worth booking ahead.

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